Ronnen, who designed Oprah Winfrey’s vegan regimen, can tempt any appetite with dishes like Artichoke and Oyster Mushroom Rockefeller, Peppercorn-encrusted Portobello Fillets with Yellow Tomato Béarnaise and Mashed Potatoes, and Mediterranean Chickpea Wrap. To supplement his own recipes, Ronnen has invited four guest chefs to prepare original dishes from their restaurants. For Ronnen and his fellow chefs, much of the pleasure of food is in the preparation, and Ronnen encourages readers to cook with friends, a good social and culinary suggestion as many of his recipes take some time and effort.
Ronnen admits to being a bit of a crusader for animal-free food, and The Conscious Cook presents the ethical and health arguments for veganism. However, the array of beautifully presented and constructed dishes in this lavishly illustrated book is the best argument for trying Ronnen’s cusine. He also includes much helpful information on equipment and ingredients, from greens to vegan products. An added value for the kosher cook is the flexibility of totally animal-free recipes that can supplement any meal. Full color throughout, seasonal menus, index.
Recipe: Pine Nut Gardein
This dish uses Gardein “chicken,” a great tasting and high-protein product that is a great transitional option for people new to vegetarian cuisine. You can find it in the frozen and fresh sections of your local grocery store. Kale cuts the richness of the sauce and the “meat” just enough.
For the chicken:
1 cup pine nuts, toasted
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
5 large basil leaves, cut into chiffonade
4 Gardein breasts, thawed
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons canola oil
For the lobster mushroom beurre blanc:
Sea salt
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, minced
1 pound lobster mushrooms, cut into brunoise
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup regular Cashew Cream
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast flakes
8 tablespoons Earth Balance, cut into
tablespoon-sized pieces
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
Freshly ground black pepper
PREPARATION
Make the cashew cream: (Prep time: 10 minutes, plus soaking overnight)
1. Put the cashews in a bowl and add cold water to cover them. Cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight.
2. Drain the cashews and rinse under cold water. Place in a blender with enough fresh cold water to cover them by 1 inch. Blend on high for several minutes until very smooth. (If you’re not using a professional high-speed blender such as a Vita-Mix, which creates an ultra-smooth cream, strain the cashew cream through a fine-mesh sieve.)
3. To make thick cashew cream, simply reduce the amount of water in the blender, so that the water just covers the cashews. Makes about 2 1/4 cups thick cream or 3 1/2 cups regular cream.
Make the chicken:
1. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F. In a food processor, pulse the pine nuts, flour and basil. Transfer to a shallow bowl or plate.
2. Flatten the breasts with your hand to 1/2 inch thick. Season each side with salt and pepper to taste, then press each side into the pine nut dredge.
3. Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Sprinkle the bottom with a pinch of salt and heat for 1 minute.
4. Add the oil and heat for 30 seconds, being careful not to let it smoke. This will create a nonstick effect.
5. Place the breasts in the pan and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Remove to a wire rack set over a paper-towel-lined baking sheet and put in the oven to keep warm while you make the sauce.
Make the lobster mushroom beurre blanc:
1. Place a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Sprinkle the bottom with a pinch of salt and heat for 1 minute. Add the oil and heat for 30 seconds, being careful not to let it smoke.
2. Reduce the heat to low. Add the shallots and sauté until translucent but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half.
3. Add the cashew cream and continue to cook for 5 minutes, then whisk in the nutritional yeast.
4. Remove from the heat. Whisk in the Earth Balance 1 tablespoon at a time, then stir in the lemon juice and chives. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Spoon the beurre blanc over the breasts and drizzle a few drops around the edge of each plate. Serve immediately.
ABOUT GARDEIN: Gardein, the protein in this recipe, looks and tastes like chicken but contains no animal or dairy ingredients. It has a savory taste and authentic texture and is made from a blend of vegetables and grains — soy, wheat, ancient grains, peas, beets, and carrots, among others.
From The Conscious Cook: Delicious Meatless Recipes That Will Change the Way You Eat, Tal Ronnen, published by William Morrow
Maron L. Waxman, retired editorial director, special projects, at the American Museum of Natural History, was also an editorial director at HarperCollins and Book-of-the-Month Club.