Open Arthur Schwartz’s Jewish Home Cooking, and you’re immediately transported to a kitchen steaming with deliciously familiar flavors with a side of authentic nostalgia. In ninety-plus recipes Schwartz, cookbook author, restaurant critic, talk show host, and all-purpose food maven, documents the dishes that second- generation American Jews grew up on. Turning the pages, a reader can almost conjure up schmaltz simmering on the stove.
Today these dishes, many of them once daily fare, are served largely on Jewish holidays. Hearty and rich, they recall a time when cholesterol and calories were not part of our everyday vocabulary, and abundance— with its accompanying loaf of corn bread — was a necessary ingredient of any meal. Like most of the landmark restaurants, appetizing stores, delicatessens, bakeries, and kosher butchers of mid-20th century New York, our taste for this solid old-fashioned food is fading away. In this homage to the Yiddish food of his Brooklyn boyhood, Schwartz laces the recipes with well-told stories, excellent background information on Ashkenazic food and cooking, personal memories, and a sprinkling of Borscht Belt jokes. Even if you never cook a single dish from this book, it serves up a feast of love and lore. Color photographs, glossary, index, resource list.
Maron L. Waxman, retired editorial director, special projects, at the American Museum of Natural History, was also an editorial director at HarperCollins and Book-of-the-Month Club.