Kenden Alfond, author of several cookbooks, is a psychotherapist with a strong interest in healthy eating. In Jewish Sweets she brings together one hundred inviting dessert recipes from Jewish bakers, pastry chefs, and home cooks around the world. This international collection reflects the diversity, history, and traditions of Jewish food and life in the hope that it will foster a sense of community in challenging times.
Each recipe tells a story and is accompanied by a brief biography. Basbousa bil Zabadi (Semolina Cake with Yogurt) is a traditional Egyptian cake served with tea or coffee. The contributor of this recipe was forced, with her family, to leave Egypt during the Suez crisis. A cook from Mumbai, now settled in Australia, presents a flatbread for Purim with a surprise filling that’s a tribute to Queen Esther’s hidden identity.
Teiglach, an Ashkenazi treat of small pastry balls boiled in syrup, comes from Lithuania via South Africa. From Libya and Tunisia comes Boulou Bread, dotted with oranges, nuts, seeds, and raisins, to break the Yom Kippur fast. Pizza was a word originally used to describe cakes, sweets, and focaccia and appears here as Pizza Ebraica, a very old Roman Jewish recipe served at family simchas.
These recipes speak to the persistence of Jewish traditions. Many of these desserts are served at weddings and b’nei mitzvah or to mark holidays. As Jews have traveled from one place to another, they have brought their special foods with them, introducing Ashkenazic flavors to the Middle East and Middle Eastern foods to Europe and North America. Suhaliki, a Russian biscotti, has made a particularly intriguing voyage. Today it is baked in the kosher kitchen of the Jewish Community synagogue in Japan along with other Jewish foods. A visiting Ukrainian remarked that Izaki-san, the synagogue’s baker, made challah that reminded her of her grandmother’s kitchen in Lviv.
To promote healthy eating, Alfond offers helpful suggestions for portion control, the key to enjoying sweets while maintaining a well-balanced diet. Eating sweet foods is important to our overall physical and psychological well-being, as well as our pleasure. By being mindful of our portions we can enjoy whatever pleases us.
The book is divided into dairy and pareve sections, with Passover recipes for each. One note of warning: The recipes are produced as they were written, with the instructions in whatever mode of weighing or measuring was comfortable to the contributor. To convert the metric measures may require a kitchen scale.
All proceeds from the sale of Jewish Sweets will go to Jewish not-for-profit organizations.
Maron L. Waxman, retired editorial director, special projects, at the American Museum of Natural History, was also an editorial director at HarperCollins and Book-of-the-Month Club.