Laura Frankel, the executive chef of Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant in the (Jewish) Spertus Museum in Chicago, calls her slow cooker her “Shabbat miracle machine.” The busy person will make the cooker a close friend at any time of day or night, Shabbat or not.
Unique and delectable dishes along with inspiring menus energize one to read the book and start “slow cooking.” The Sabbath Cholent with Kishke is a mouth-watering dish in the Eastern European tradition; equally tempting is the Moroccan equivalent, Dafina with Moroccan Rice Dumpling. The home chef is guided with a sure hand in preparing scrumptious desserts such as the unusual and world-spanning Chocolate-Ancho Chile Pudding Cake with Sparkling Sabayon, or sauces such as the tangy Latin-inspired Mole Poblano. Yes, the kosher cook should go ahead and buy a few long lasting slow cookers or inserts. It will be well worth the expense.
Through the years, I have prepared dishes overnight in my oven, which I call “cooking while you sleep.” Now I want to try Laura Frankel’s Vegetarian Chili, Chicken with Rice, Senegalese Peanut Soup, Mashed Sweet Potatoes, Simple Grits, and Lamb Tagine among other fascinating offerings.
Laura Frankel holds your hand in the more complicated recipes and guides you with her knowledge and experience. The Jewish Slow Cooker will bring out the dormant 5‑star chef in you.
Recipe: Rubbed Brisket
Makes 10 Servings
Brisket is so traditional — how can you improve upon it? My friend Julia makes brisket rubbed with spices, wrapped in foil, and slowly cooked in the oven. She swears that the spice-infused meat stays plump and juicy and keeps its hearty texture. Inspired by her technique, I decided to adapt her method for the slow cooker.
Boy, was she right! The fat melts into the meat and drips off. The bed of vegetables keeps the meat from sitting in the fat, and the flavors of the rub penetrate the meat and give it a pungent, lip-smacking flavor. To really put this over the top, I cut the cooked brisket into large chunks, toss it with my Root Beer BBQ Sauce, pile it on crusty rolls, and top it with creamy coleslaw. So messy and so good.
The brisket can be made 3 days ahead of serving and stored, covered, in the refrigerator, or frozen for up to 1 month. To reheat gently, preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the brisket and strained drippings or barbecue sauce in a casserole and cover. Reheat in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
2 tablespoons dry mustard2 tablespoons dried thyme
2 tablespoons Ancho Chile Powder
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon pimenton (see Note), preferably hot
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground anise seed
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1/4 cup light brown sugar
One 5‑pound first-cut brisket
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil
2 large Spanish onions, diced
3 medium carrots, peeled and diced
3 celery stalks, diced
1 head of garlic, unpeeled, cut in half horizontally
Suggested Garnishes
Root Beer BBQ Sauce1. Preheat a 6 1/2‑quart slow cooker to Low. Combine the dry mustard, thyme, ancho chile powder, coriander, pimenton, cumin, anise, ginger, and brown sugar in a small bowl.
2. Salt and pepper the brisket on both sides. Rub the brisket with a little olive oil. Generously coat the brisket on both sides with the rub.
3. Place the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic in the slow cooker insert. Lay the brisket, fat side up, on top of the vegetables. Cover and cook on Low for 8 hours.
4. Transfer the brisket to a cutting board or platter, cover loosely, and let it cool completely before slicing.
5. Strain the drippings through a fine-mesh strainer into a storage container. Discard the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate until the fat rises to the top and hardens. Remove and discard the fat. The broth can be served, heated, as a sauce with the sliced brisket. Serve with Root Beer BBQ Sauce, if you like.
Note
Pimenton is a Spanish smoked paprika. It is really not comparable to the paprika found in most grocery stores. It may be sweet or hot, and has a wonderful smokiness essential to paella, chorizo, and other Spanish delicacies. Pimenton can be found readily online or at specialty markets.
Reprinted with permission from Jewish Slow Cooker Recipes by Laura Frankel, Agate Surrey, 2015.
Root Beer BBQ Sauce
Makes 3 Cups
I will often go out of my way for a mug of cold, bubbly root beer. So why not a BBQ sauce that sings with the earthy spice that I love? This is my version of the regional American sauce. I use it on chicken, short ribs, and brisket.
You can store this sauce, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or freeze it for up to 3 months.
2 cups root beer such as Virgil’s (don’t use diet root beer)1 cup ketchup, preferably Heinz
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup bourbon or apple cider for a nonalcoholic sauce
1/2 cup crumbled gingersnaps (about 8 small cookies; store-bought are fine)
11/2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon light molasses
1/2 teaspoon minced lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 garlic cloves, grated with a Microplane
1 medium onion, grated with a Microplane or on the fine side of a box grater
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
Place all of the ingredients in a slow cooker insert. Cover and cook on High for 6 hours. Adjust the salt and pepper to taste. Serve or store.
Reprinted with permission from Jewish Slow Cooker Recipes by Laura Frankel, Agate Surrey, 2015.
Recipe: Garlicky Pot Roast
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Something magical seems to happen when this dish cooks for a long time — the meat becomes fragrant and the garlic becomes caramelized and sweet. The “gravy” that results is so delicious that I often find one of my kids hanging around the kitchen with bread in hand to sop it up. The addition of the gingersnaps to the dish might seem odd, but they add a lot of flavor and help thicken the gravy.
The roast can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 days, or frozen for 1 month. To reheat the pot roast, place the meat and gravy in a saucepan. Add enough chicken stock to moisten the meat, usually only about 1⁄4 cup. Cover and cook on low heat until heated through.
For the Marinade
3 tablespoons chopped garlic (about 4 large cloves)
1⁄4 cup light brown sugar
1⁄4 cup olive oil, plus extra for browning the roast
1⁄2 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons tomato paste
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
One 3- to 5‑pound chuck roast, fat trimmed
Olive oil
For the Sauce
2 large Spanish onions, chopped
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup dark beer such as Guinness or Aventinus
1 whole head of Roasted Garlic
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup crumbled gingersnaps (about 15 small cookies;
store-bought are fine)
1⁄4 cup tomato paste
Suggested accompaniments
grits, mashed potatoes
1. Marinate the Roast: In a bowl large enough to hold the roast, stir together the chopped garlic, brown sugar, olive oil, vinegar, tomato paste, and 1 tablespoon each salt and pepper. Add the roast and turn it to coat on all sides. Cover the bowl and marinate for at least 3 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. Remove the roast from the marinade and pat dry. Discard the marinade. Lightly season the roast with salt and pepper. Brown the meat on all sides, about 7 minutes per side. Set aside the roast but do not clean the pan.
3. Preheat a 6 1⁄2‑quart slow cooker to High.
4. Make the Sauce: Add the onions to the sauté pan and cook until brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chopped garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more, until the garlic is very fragrant and has softened slightly; do not let the garlic brown. Add the beer. Scrape up the browned bits with a wooden spoon or spatula. Transfer the mixture to the slow cooker insert.
5. Place the roast and any collected juices in the insert. Squeeze the roasted garlic out of the skin and into the insert. Add the stock, gingersnaps, and tomato paste. Stir together. Cover and cook the roast on High for 7 to 8 hours, until it can be pierced easily with a fork.
6. Remove the roast from the cooker and keep warm. Strain the sauce before serving. Cut the roast into large chunks and serve hot with your choice of accompaniment. Pass the sauce.
From Jewish Slow Cooker, Laura Frankel, published by Wiley.